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At David Lewis, we focus on delivering high-quality building projects that combine skilled workmanship with attention to detail. Our work enhances how people live and build, ensuring every project is constructed to meet unique needs and stand the test of time.
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David Lewis and his team have been fantastic from start to finish. The work was carried out to a very high standard, and everything ran smoothly on site. They kept us fully informed throughout, were always punctual, and the quality of the finish exceeded our expectations. We wouldn’t hesitate to recommend them.
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Latest News
A bathroom renovation is one of the most satisfying home improvements, but it is also one where cutting corners shows quickly. Damp, mould, cracked tiles, and failing grout are all symptoms of bathrooms that were not built properly in the first place. Here is how to get it right.
Start with the layout
Before choosing tiles and taps, think carefully about the layout. Moving the position of the toilet, basin, or shower changes the drainage runs beneath the floor, which adds complexity and cost. If the existing layout works well, keeping the sanitaryware in roughly the same positions keeps the project simpler and more affordable.
Waterproofing is everything
The most important part of a bathroom renovation is the work you will never see. Tanking the shower area and around the bath with a proper waterproof membrane prevents moisture getting into the walls and floor structure. In older Oxford homes with timber floors, this is especially critical. Water damage to joists is expensive to repair and entirely preventable.
Ventilation
A bathroom without adequate ventilation will always have problems with condensation and mould, no matter how well it is finished. Building regulations require mechanical extraction in any bathroom without an openable window, and even in bathrooms with windows, an extractor fan is good practice. Humidity-sensing fans that run automatically are the most effective option.
Choosing materials
Natural stone tiles look beautiful but need sealing and more maintenance than porcelain. Large format tiles create a clean, modern look and have fewer grout lines to keep clean. For flooring, porcelain or vinyl are the most practical choices in a wet environment. Avoid laminate, which swells when it gets wet.
Heating
Underfloor heating in a bathroom is a relatively inexpensive addition during a renovation and makes an enormous difference to comfort. An electric mat beneath the floor tiles is straightforward to install and costs very little to run.
A well-built bathroom should last fifteen to twenty years without needing attention. The investment in doing it properly at the outset pays for itself many times over.
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The passive house standard originated in Germany in the 1990s and has become the gold standard for energy-efficient building. While achieving full certification on an existing Oxford home is rarely practical, the underlying principles can dramatically improve comfort and reduce energy bills.
What is passive house?
A passive house is designed to need almost no active heating or cooling. It achieves this through exceptional insulation, airtight construction, triple-glazed windows, and mechanical ventilation with heat recovery. A certified passive house uses up to 90 percent less energy for heating than a conventional building.
Applying the principles to renovations
You do not need to build from scratch to benefit. When renovating an older home, each of these principles can be applied to varying degrees.
Insulation is the single biggest improvement you can make. Internally lining external walls, insulating beneath floors, and adding insulation at roof level will transform how a draughty Oxford home feels in winter. The key is to insulate continuously, avoiding gaps and thermal bridges where heat escapes.
Airtightness is the second priority. Sealing around windows, doors, service penetrations, and junctions between walls and floors prevents warm air leaking out. This does not mean the house cannot breathe. A mechanical ventilation system with heat recovery brings in fresh air while capturing the warmth from the outgoing stale air.
Windows are the weakest point in any building envelope. Upgrading to double or triple glazing with low-emissivity coatings and insulated frames makes a significant difference. Positioning larger windows on south-facing elevations captures free solar heat in winter.
Is it worth the investment?
Energy-efficient upgrades pay for themselves over time through lower bills, and they make the home noticeably more comfortable from day one. With energy prices unlikely to fall, investing in the fabric of your home is one of the smartest long-term decisions you can make.
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Building regulations are one of those topics that cause unnecessary anxiety. They exist to ensure buildings are safe and energy efficient, and a competent builder will manage the process as part of any project. Here is what you need to know.
Building regulations vs planning permission
These are two separate systems that are often confused. Planning permission is about whether you are allowed to build something in a particular location. Building regulations are about how the work is carried out, covering structural safety, fire protection, insulation, ventilation, drainage, and electrical safety. You can need one without the other, or both.
When are building regulations required?
Almost any structural work requires building regulations approval. This includes extensions, loft conversions, removing load-bearing walls, rewiring, installing new heating systems, and replacing windows. Minor work like redecorating, replacing a kitchen, or building a small garden shed is generally exempt.
How the process works
There are two routes to compliance. A full plans application involves submitting detailed drawings to the local authority or an approved inspector before work starts. The alternative is a building notice, which is simpler but gives less certainty upfront. For anything beyond a straightforward project, full plans are usually the better option.
During the build, an inspector will visit at key stages such as foundations, damp proof course, drainage, and completion. Your builder should know when to book these inspections and what needs to be ready at each stage.
Completion certificates
When the work is finished and passes final inspection, you receive a completion certificate. This is an important document. If you ever sell your home, your solicitor will need to see completion certificates for any regulated work. Missing certificates can delay or even derail a sale, so always make sure you receive yours.
A good builder will handle building regulations as a routine part of the job. If someone suggests skipping the process to save time or money, that is a warning sign.
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Not every space problem requires a house extension. Garden rooms have surged in popularity, offering a self-contained room at the bottom of the garden for a fraction of the cost and disruption of a traditional build.
What counts as a garden room?
A garden room is a freestanding outbuilding, typically insulated and finished to a standard that makes it usable year-round. They range from simple timber-framed structures to fully serviced buildings with electricity, heating, and plumbing. Most are used as home offices, studios, gyms, or guest accommodation.
Planning permission
Under permitted development, outbuildings are allowed without planning permission provided they meet certain conditions. They must be single storey, must not cover more than half the garden, and must not exceed 2.5 metres in height if within two metres of a boundary. In conservation areas, additional restrictions apply on size and positioning. If you want to use the building as a separate dwelling, planning permission will always be required.
Build quality matters
The garden room market is flooded with flat-pack options of varying quality. A poorly insulated pod will be freezing in winter and baking in summer, making it useless for half the year. Investing in proper insulation, double glazing, and a small heating system makes the difference between a glorified shed and a genuine extra room.
Services
Running electricity to a garden room should be done by a qualified electrician and will need to be signed off under building regulations. If you are adding a bathroom or kitchenette, you will also need water supply and drainage. Planning the route for these services at the design stage avoids expensive retrospective work.
For many Oxford homeowners with decent-sized gardens, a garden room is the most practical and affordable way to gain an extra room without the upheaval of building onto the house.
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One of the great pleasures of owning a period property in Oxford is the craftsmanship that went into the original details. Sash windows, decorative plasterwork, and fireplaces give these homes their soul. Sadly, many of these features have been damaged, covered up, or removed over the decades. Restoring them is always worth the effort.
Sash windows
Original timber sash windows are one of the most common casualties of well-meaning modernisation. Many were replaced with uPVC in the 1980s and 90s. Where the originals survive, they can almost always be repaired rather than replaced. Draught-proofing, new sash cords, and careful repainting can make a single-glazed sash window surprisingly airtight. For improved thermal performance, slim double-glazed units can now be fitted into the original frames.
In a listed building or conservation area, replacing original windows without consent is a criminal offence. Even where replacement is permitted, like-for-like timber sashes are usually required.
Cornicing and ceiling roses
Plaster cornicing is often hidden above modern suspended ceilings or damaged by water leaks. A skilled plasterer can repair broken sections using moulds taken from surviving pieces. Where cornicing has been entirely removed, architectural salvage yards sometimes stock matching profiles, or new runs can be cast from a neighbouring house of the same era.
Fireplaces
Many Oxford homes had their fireplaces boarded up or ripped out during the mid-twentieth century when central heating arrived. Behind the boarding you will often find the original surround intact, sometimes with decorative tiles still in place. Reopening a fireplace requires checking the flue for safety and may need relining if you plan to use it for a wood burner.
Even if you do not intend to light fires, a restored fireplace provides a focal point that anchors the room in its history. Paired with a mantelpiece sourced from a local reclamation yard, it can transform a bland living room into something with real character.
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Knocking through walls to create open plan living spaces has been one of the most popular home improvements of the past decade. But while it suits many properties, it is not always the right answer. Before you pick up a sledgehammer, here are some things to consider.
The appeal
Open plan layouts connect the kitchen, dining, and living areas into one flowing space. They make homes feel larger, improve sightlines, and let families be together even when they are doing different things. For entertaining, they are hard to beat.
When it works well
Open plan living suits properties where the existing rooms are small and disconnected. Many Victorian and Edwardian homes in Oxford have a series of narrow rooms along a hallway that feel dark and cramped. Removing the dividing walls and opening onto the garden can completely change the feel of the ground floor.
When to think twice
In some homes, separate rooms serve a purpose. If you work from home and need a quiet space away from the kitchen, or if family members have different schedules, having distinct rooms with doors that close offers flexibility that open plan does not. Noise travels easily across open plan spaces, and cooking smells will reach every corner.
The broken plan compromise
A middle ground that has become popular is broken plan living. Instead of removing walls entirely, you might use partial walls, sliding doors, or changes in floor level to define different zones within a larger space. This gives the openness and light of open plan while allowing areas to be separated when needed.
Structural implications
Most internal walls in older properties are load-bearing. Removing them requires steel beams to carry the load above, and this is work that needs a structural engineer and an experienced builder. The cost of the steelwork and making good can vary considerably depending on the span involved.
The best approach is to start with how you actually live in your home, rather than following a trend. A good architect will help you find the layout that works for your family.
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